Summertime temperatures are often a welcome relief for both people and pets, with cases of cabin fever. Unfortunately, the warm up also brings out those persistent perennial parasites… Fleas!
With an ability to jump 12-18 inches from a standstill, the 1/8″ long common cat flea is one of the hardiest pests that our dogs and cats will encounter. An appetite for blood, an uncanny ability to reproduce, and a short life cycle make this parasite difficult to control or eradicate. What’s worse, the fleas can carry diseases that can affect our pets and us! How can we help protect our dogs and cats from this annual menace?
Several thousand species of fleas exist, but the cat flea is the most common throughout the United States and Canada. Feeding on the blood of dogs and cats, occasionally these fleas may even choose to dine on us! With a preference for warm weather and higher humidity, fleas are most often encountered during the spring and summer months. It may come as no surprise to many that the increasing global temperatures are lengthening the flea season for many pets across the United States. In addition our warm homes in winter create a livable environment so fleas can quickly become a year-round problem!
Once adult fleas attack your pet, you can expect to have flea eggs in the environment within about 36 hours. These small oblong eggs will fall off of the pet into the carpet, bedding, or yard and actually hatch into larval forms of the flea within 1-10 days. The larval forms will spend time munching on organic debris, such as dead skin cells and flea dirt. The larvae then form cocoons from materials it finds in the environment. The adult fleas can actually hatch out of the cocoon within 1 second when stimulated by light, movement, or heat. Given optimal conditions of humidity and temperature, this flea life cycle can be completed in as little as 12 days!
Besides their ability to reproduce quickly, fleas also can reproduce in almost unimaginable numbers. A single female flea has the ability to lay about 2000 eggs during her short 100 day lifetime and a group of 25 female fleas can swell to thousands in just 30 short days! To make matters worse, adult fleas comprise just 5% of the total flea population in the environment; more than 95% are present as eggs, larvae, or the hardy cocoon.
Although itchy pets are the hallmark of a flea infestation, fleas also bring several other concerns to pets and their owners. Severe infestations of fleas can actually cause young kittens or puppies and older pets to become anemic from blood loss. Blood parasites, as well as intestinal parasites, such as tapeworms, are commonly spread through fleas. More serious infectious diseases of humans, such as bubonic plague and cat scratch disease are also connected with these tiny pests.
Fortunately, recent advances in flea control technology have given the pet owner a wide range of products that are not only effective, but very gentle as well. Utilizing differences between mammal and insect physiology, leading veterinary pharmaceutical companies have developed long lasting insecticides for our pets.
Although many flea control products can be found in over the counter outlets, pet owners are urged to see their family veterinarian before choosing a product. Some of the pesticides that can be found in grocery stores, TV ads and mass merchants should not be used on certain pets, such as cats.
The flea control products that are recommended by veterinarians have additional benefits above control of the adult fleas. These products will actually help to break the life cycle of the flea by killing the adult flea before they have time to reproduce. Most flea products sold at veterinarians will actually kill the adult fleas within 24 hours of application and this speed of kill helps prevent the females from laying eggs.
Your veterinarian can help you decide what product is going to be best for you based on several factors: what type of pets you have, what part of the country you live in, and what other parasites your pets are exposed to routinely. As an added bonus, your veterinarian is available to you if you have concerns about the performance of the flea products.
Filed under Articles by on Aug 11th, 2010. Comment. 
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is a virus that infects only cats. Researchers first discovered the virus in the 1980’s and is now found in cats worldwide. Although it is prevalent throughout the world, only about 13% of the cats show evidence of exposure to the virus. Once exposed to the virus, the cats immune system is weakened similar to the HIV virus in humans but the virus does not cause illness in humans, only cats. In some cats, they show symptoms right away, and in others, they can harbor the virus for years before they begin to get sick.
A cat becomes infected usually from the bite of another cat. Sometimes the mother cat can pass the virus to their kittens during gestation, birthing or nursing. These kittens can sometimes test positive with the anti-body tests, but it could be a false positive from the mothers anti-bodies that were absorbed through the colostrum of the mothers milk. Re-testing of these kittens when they are 6 months or older can sometimes show that they were not infected. The disease does not live very long in the environment, so it is not spread by casual contact or by sharing food bowls.
What the Disease Does
Once a cat does become infected, he will show very few symptoms. A few cats can develop a fever, enlarged lymph nodes, some diarrhea or an anemia. These symptoms may resolve and the cat could remain healthy for years until at some point in time the virus begins to attack the immune system, leaving the cat vulnerable to other diseases and parasites.Signs of FIV infection include:
- loss of appetite and weight loss
- severe gingivitis (gum disease) and sores in the mouth
- diarrhea
- vomiting
- anemia
- eye disorders (conjunctivitis)
- nervous system disorders
- chronic fever
- chronic infections of the skin, ears, and respiratory system.
How can you tell if your cat has FIV? There is a simple blood test your veterinarian can perform to check for FIV. Most veterinarians recommend testing all new cats, especially if you already have other cats in your household. If your cat does spend time outdoors, you should probably test every year. If your cat does test positive, follow-up tests can double check the accuracy of the first one. As mentioned before, this is especially important for kittens under six months of age,because positive results are often caused by passive immunity from the mother. If these cats test negative later in life, they likely were never infected with the virus.
How can you care for an infected cat? Since there is no cure for FIV and these cats can sometimes live for years before showing any problems, there are several steps you can take to keep your FIV-infected cat as healthy as possible. You will want to keep your FIV cat indoors to prevent him from spreading disease to other cats and to keep him from getting into fights with other cats that can cause severe bite wound infections and exposure to other diseases, such as Feline Leukemia. You should isolate him from your other non-infected cats , if possible. Keep him up to date on his routine veterinary care, parasite control and vaccinations. Examinations are recommended every six months. Gum infections can be helped with the use of anti-biotics. Although FIV is incurable, treatment is given for secondary infections and to reduce symptoms. Immuno-modulators and antiviral drugs may also help.
Because FIV cannot be cured, prevention is critical. Keeping cats in the house is the best method because it prevents exposure from feral cats lurking outdoors. Cats that do go outside should be spayed or neutered to reduce the likelihood of fighting. If you are adding a new cat to your home, test it before it meets its new friends. Infected and uninfected cats can live side-by-side without transmitting the infection as long as they don’t bite each other. However, there is always a risk.
A vaccine is available to protect against FIV, but the effectiveness of this vaccine is still questionable and most veterinarians do not recommend it (including myself), Also, there is no test to distinguish between a vaccinated cat and an infected cat. This creates a serious dilemma, since infected cats require special care. Worse yet, FIV-positive cats are commonly euthanized by animal shelters. Until new tests are developed, the decision whether or not to vaccinate will be a difficult one you need to discuss with your veterinarian.
Filed under Articles by on May 31st, 2010. Comment.
Slinking through the back alleys and vacant lots, millions of stray and feral cats live on the outskirts of our cities and suburbs. Fearful of humans, these “wild” cats are blamed for everything from killing off songbirds to attacking the sea otters. So, what is the truth behind these feral felines and why are some humans so determined to help them and save their lives?
More than 80 million pampered felines share our homes and cat lovers are abundant across our country. But, those cats living outdoors have few admirers and live in constant danger of imminent death, usually at our hands!
There is no way to know for certain, by some experts estimate that the feral cat population in North America may equal or even exceed that of the “owned’ cat population. Feral cats are not socialized to humans and avoid contact with people whenever possible. In contrast, “stray” cats are often those cats that have left a home or have been abandoned by their owners. These strays may have been socialized to humans at one time and will often approach people and may even allow petting. All cats, feral, stray and owned cats that simply roam the neighborhood are all members of the domestic species, Felis catus.
Traditionally, feral and stray cats are trapped whenever possible and then are taken to local animal shelters. Once at a shelter, if they are socialized to humans and have a calm temperament, some cats may be adopted out. However, the vast majority of these feral cats may be harboring diseases, such as Feline Leukemia, or they are totally wild and cannot be adopted out. These cats will often face death by lethal injection and be euthanized. According to an organization for feral cats known as Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org) nearly 70% of the cats that arrive at shelters are euthanized making euthanasia the number one documented cause of death in felines in the United States.
Alley Cat Allies formed their organization in 1990 hoping to stop the killing of millions of cats. One of their founders, Becky Robinson, recalls walking in an alleyway and seeing a whole colony of “tuxedo cats”. Observing the alley cats interacting with one another gave her insight into the social lives of these “wild” animals and prompted her to work towards their preservation. Since that memorable night, Becky and her volunteers have introduced the Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) concept to the United States. Originally conceived in England, these TNR programs have helped to improve the health of many feral cats through vaccinations and sterilization and are working towards reducing the size of the feral cat colonies.
Simply put, the TNR uses volunteers to capture the feral cats in humane cage traps. These wild cats are then transported to participating veterinarians who anesthetize, neuter and vaccinate the animals. To help identify the cats that have been sterilized so that they do not have to be trapped again, a notch is cut in the cat’s ear. The notched ear is easier to see from a distance than a tattoo on their belly. Once they have recovered from the surgery, the cats are taken back to their original capture location and allowed to re-join their home colony. Caretakers will then monitor the overall health of the colony and conduct a population census while providing feeding stations for the cats.
The TNR programs do have their critics. Bird watchers are concerned about the impact of feral cats on songbird populations and other wildlife. Neighbors living near feral cat colonies worry about cats urinating and defecating in their gardens. While public health officials are concerned about zoonotic diseases, such as toxoplasmosis, plague and rabies. These colonies also seem to have a higher incidence of Feline Leukemia, and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus that can cross over to “owned” cats that may be outside. The website TNR Reality Check (www.tnrrealitycheck.com) states that there is little evidence that TNR programs help control the feral cat population.
Ms. Robinson disagrees with their findings and points to several recent scientific articles that demonstrate TNR is a valid means for controlling and even reducing the size of a feral cat colony. Furthermore, she also questions the validity of claims by such groups as the American Bird Conservancy that feral cats are the biggest threat to songbird survival.
Cat owners may also be contributing to the controversial issue. Many of the cats in these feral colonies are abandoned by their owner and are left to fend for themselves in these colonies. Some cat owners are hesitant to take their cats to animal shelters and may feel less guilty about leaving the cat alone outside if they know the colony of feral cats has a caretaker that is feeding the cats. However, this is unfair to the people attempting to care for the colony and exposes your defenseless cat to the dangers of the outdoor world.
With the economy tightening, many people are given the tough choice concerning their pet cats, especially if they are forced to move and cannot afford the pet deposit of the new apartment or rental house. If your personal circumstances changes and you simply cannot continue to keep your cat, do not simply leave your cat to the mercy of the outdoor elements to fend for himself. Contact your local humane group or city shelter and request their assistance to help find your feline friend a new home.
Dealing with the sheer quantity of millions of feral and stray cats in this country alone will be a controversial topic for many years. But, as Becky says, “cats have lived on the outskirts of our society for almost 10,000 years. This is a fact we shouldn’t try to change.”
To learn more about the work of feral cat organizations across the country, feel free to visit www.alleycat.org
Debra Garrison, DVM
Filed under Articles by on May 22nd, 2010. Comment.
Fleas are pesky parasites and have adapted very well to living in our houses. In fact, houses are at the perfect temperature and humidity to become hatching factories for fleas. I no longer recommend flea control just in the spring and summer, but prefer to use flea control on pets all year round. It is better to prevent a flea infestation that try to eradicate one. One flea can hitch a ride on your pants leg from visiting a friends house, and if this flea is a female, chances are she already laden with thousands of eggs. Fortunately, fleas prefer to feast on the smaller critters rather than humans, because our pet’s body temperature is a few degrees higher than ours. But if the dog, cat or ferret are not present, then fleas will indeed bite a human.
To control fleas, you must have an understanding of the flea life cycle and the points in that life cycle where they are vulnerable to eradication. You also need to know what products that will kill the fleas and which ones are safe for your pets. Because some people may have more than one species of pets in the household, you do not want to use a product on a dog that may be potentially toxic to a cat or a ferret.
We will start with the life cycle of the flea.
- A female flea begins to feed on her host as soon as she hops a ride. Her blood meal nourishes the eggs and egg production begins within 20 to 24 hours after her first feeding.
- Female fleas can lay 20 to 50 eggs a day and 2000 in her lifetime.
- The female flea consumes 15 times her weight in blood a day.
- A flea bites your pet 400 times a day.
- The “flea dirt” found on your pet is the flea feces made of your pet’s blood. You can tell it is flea dirt if you put a small amount on a white paper towel and apply a small amount of water. As the dirt dissolves it will turn the paper towel red.
- The eggs are pearly white, oval and about 0.5 mm in length.
- The term “salt and pepper” refers to the flea eggs that are about the size of a grain of salt and the flea dirt that falls off of the pet. It is most notable on the bedding of the pet or where ever the pet lays.
- The eggs are laid on the pet and roll off the pet into the environment.
- Depending on the temperature and humidity, fleas can go from eggs to adults in as little as 13 days to as long as 8 months.
- The flea eggs hatch into flea larvae which look similar to small maggots covered with tiny hairs.
- The flea larvae do not like light and will crawl through the carpet to seek darkness under the furniture, in cracks and crevices of cushions and in other out of the way areas.
- This is one reason why traditional “flea bombs” are sometimes ineffective. The spray goes up and comes back down, and does not reach where the larvae are hiding and feeding.
- Flea larvae feed on the adult flea blood feces dropped off your pet and other organic matter in your carpet.
- The length of the larval stage of the flea is dependent on the temperature and humidity of the house.
- The next stage of development is the pupae or cocoon.
- The larvae builds the cocoon and uses some of the debris in the environment such as carpet fibers into the shell of the cocoon.
- The shell of the cocoon is now “glued” into the carpet and impossible to vacuum up.
- The shell also provides protection from the elements and also insecticides.
- Fleas will emerge from the cocoon when the temperature is around 24° (75.2° F) and a relative humidity of 78%.
- The flea can remain in the cocoon for up to 30 weeks.
- The flea will emerge from the cocoon when stimulated by:
- Mechanical pressure or vibrations- such as someone or a pet walking by.
- CO2 – Carbon dioxide from the pet or person breathing.
- Increased temperature.
- Homeowners away for a vacation can sometimes experience the sudden hatch out of thousands of fleas that were in the cocoon state ready to emerge. The vibrations of the owners returning and the exhaled carbon dioxide coupled with the air conditioner turning back on will stimulate the fleas to emerge and start to bite anything that is near. This sudden hatch out can also occur in vacant houses that have just been moved into.
Now that you understand the life cycle of the flea, let us find the points that the flea can be killed.
- The first point is on the pet. There are newer products available that are safe to use and will kill the flea with in the first 24 hours of the flea jumping on the pet. Why is this important? Remember that the flea does not start laying eggs until 20 to 24 hours after her first blood meal. If you can kill the female flea before she begins to lay eggs, you are a giant leap ahead of controlling your flea population.
- Point number two. Intermittently applying flea control products will result in gaps in your flea control that will result in female fleas laying eggs that can hatch out a year later. I recommend that you use the flea preventative products once a month all year round. Consider the flea not as a seasonal critter, but an indoor monster waiting to hatch out of your carpet and suck your pet’s blood.
- Point number three. The eggs and cocoons have a protective shell that make them resistant to the insecticides. The larvae and the adult fleas are the only stages that can be killed by insecticides.
- Point number four. Insect growth regulators are effective to keep flea eggs from hatching, but are difficult to apply in the areas that the flea eggs are hiding.
- Point number five – Frequent use of insecticides in your house and yard can build up and may cause toxicity to you and your family.For these reasons, I do not like insecticide foggers or bombs in the house. They do not get in the areas that hide the fleas and they contain insecticides that can build up in your house.
So, what products are safe to use on my cat?
ADVANTAGE
- The advantage product by Bayer (Imidacloprid) is an excellent product for the control of fleas on dogs, cats and ferrets. (not officially labeled for use on ferret see post on http://www.allferret.com/1425/controling-fleas-on-ferrets/)
Advantage has unique crystals that are not harmful to mammals, but totally incapacitate the fleas. There is a 99% kill rate within 12 hours after applying the advantage. The obvious advantage is it kills the female flea before she begins to lay her eggs, thus breaking the life cycle. The other advantage is the imidacloprid crystals that are attached to the hairs of the pet fall off the animal into the environment, i.e. the carpet, etc. as the pet sheds hair. When the larvae emerge from the safe confines of their egg shell and come in contact with the crystals in the carpet, the result is another dead flea larvae within 2o minutes.
So by applying the advantage product to your pet once a month, all year round, you are also effectively treating the environment as the fleas are hatching out.
Check out how it works at http://advantage.petparents.com/
ADVANTAGE-Multi
(imidacloprid/moxidectin)
Advantage – multi contains the imidacloprid like the Advantage but also contains moxidectin. By adding moxidectin advantage- multi prevents heartworm disease, kills adult fleas and controls flea infestations, and treats and controls intestinal worms (hookworms and roundworms). Advantage-multi is applied once a month for both cats and dogs. We have also used it to control ear mites and other mites. Advantage -multi is only available with a prescription but is well worth it for what it covers.
For more information check out http://www.advantagemulti.com/
Revolution
Revolution is the first-ever FDA-approved, topically applied medication for dogs and cats that kills adult fleas and prevents flea eggs from hatching out, treats and controls earmites, treats and controls sarcoptic mange, and also helps control the brown dog tick. Revolution contains selamectin and is topically applied. Revolution then enters the bloodstream through the skin. Concentrations of Revolution in the blood and tissues prevent heartworm disease and treats the intestinal parasites (hookworms and roundworms). Revolution selectively redistributes from the blood to the skin, where it provides protection against fleas, flea eggs, American dog tick, and mites. I recommend the Revolution be applied once a month to both dogs and cats all year round. Revolution is also only available with a prescription.
Learn more from Pfizer at http://www.revolutionpet.com/revolutionpet.aspx
Vectra for Cats
The Vectra for cats does not contain permethrin.
Vectra® for Cats & Kittens and Vectra for Cats® contains a unique dual-action formulation that’s proven highly effective against fleas:
- Dinotefuran: quick-kill contact neonicotinoid that causes continuous nervous stimulation in insects resulting intremors and death.
- Pyriproxyfen: potent IGR prevents development of all immature flea stages; stable in sunlight.
In numerous studies and clinics across the country, Vectra for Cats & Kittens and Vectra for Cats have provided fast, safe, long-lasting protection against fleas and flea-borne diseases.
- Kills fleas within 6 hours.
- Kills on contact; fleas do not have to bite to die.
- Prevents development of all immature flea stages: eggs, larvae and pupae.
- Protects against flea-borne diseases including tularemia, rickettsiosis, bartonellosis and tapeworm.
- One application protects cats for 1 month.
- Safe for kittens as young as 8 weeks of age.
- Patented applicator makes administration fast, easy and accurate.
Vectra does not cover intestinal parasites, heartworms, or earmites.
SunmmitVetPharm.com http://summitvetpharm.com/Pet-Owners/
ProMeris
ProMeris for cats is a topical, spot-on product for the effective control of existing flea infestations and prevention of re-infestations in cats and kittens 8 weeks and older. It’s the only product available from a veterinarian that contains a proven, active ingredient called metaflumizone, and research shows fleas are readily susceptible.
ProMeris for cats is available with a prescription:
- Effectively stops and controls infestations and prevents re-infestations of fleas for up to seven weeks
- Provides optimal flea control with one monthly dose
- May be used as part of a treatment strategy for flea allergy dermatitis
- Includes an easy-to-use applicator
- Is gentle enough for cats and kittens 8 weeks and older
Visit http://www.promeris.com/ for more information.
A few words about OTC (over the counter) flea medications. It has been my experience that the OTC flea spot-ons sprays and flea collars are NOT effective flea control products and I do not recommend them.
EPA is tightening restrictions on Flea and Tick products http://www.treaschwigveterinaryclinic.com/825/epa-tightening-restrictions-on-flea-and-tick-product/
As you can see, there is a variety of products available for flea control. Each one has it’s own merits and covers different parasites. If you seem at all confused, get with your veterinarian and discuss with him or her what products they recommend. Since I live in a mosquito, flea, tick, and intestinal parasite hot bed in Houston, TX, my preference has been Revolution because it covers almost everything and because it is absorbed through the skin, bathing does not remove the product. Also cats are now getting heartworms so I am also recommending the Revolution be applied to cats year round to help prevent heartworm disease. I also like the Revolution for the earmite and sarcoptic mange control as well as the intestinal parasite control.
I have given a brief synopsis and links to the supporting websites so you can be an educated consumer.
I hope this has helped.
Debra Garrison, DVM
Filed under Articles by on Mar 19th, 2010. Comment.
While a magnetic cat door sometimes operates on batteries or on regular house electrical current, that doesn’t mean that it’s always the case, which means that they can continue operating even when there’s a power failure. This is a great feature of these doors because the pet can be left alone and the owner will not have to worry about the cat being locked in or out of the house because of a power failure or battery failure.
How Magnetic Doors Operate
This door is able to detect the electromagnetic field of a magnet that is part of a collar that the cat has to wear, which turns the collar into some sort of door key. When this magnet is close to the door due to the approach of the cat, the door opens. In this way, the cat can come and go as it pleases and the door will always be locked when not in use.
This feature is a big plus for pet owners who are not home during the day or who are away on weekends because they will not have to worry if their pet can get in or out of the house while they are away
Safety
The magnetic cat door is safe and secure for pets to use because the door automatically locks after the cat passes through the door and only opens when activated by the magnetic collar around the cat’s neck. So, if your cat is chased by animals or by mean spirited children, once it’s inside the house, the door will protect it from pursuers. As an extra feature, since the door is locked, burglars can’t use it to sneak into the house or to insert an object that will open the lock.
Some magnetic cat doors even have some extra features that will allow you to modify how and when access is granted. Magnetic cat doors aren’t really harder to install than regular cat doors.
Generally the magnetic cat door is weatherproofed which will help keep out drafty cold weather in the winter and blazing hot heat from the sun in summer. While a magnetic cat door is very convenient, it’s not recommended for very young kittens.
Price
They generally cost about $50. However, some models cost up to $100. Luxurious or custom made models can cost even more.
Filed under Articles by on Mar 8th, 2010. Comment.
